News from dermaviduals

Skin care during cancer therapy
When customers undergo cancer treatment also the skin condition is affected. Problems and side effects of cancer therapies can be attenuated with an adequate skin care.
Powders, gels, creams und sticks - Routes of administration
Cosmetic products often have rather imaginative names and sometimes even propose riddles to the consumers. In other words, a so-called gel may prove to be no gel at all in the technological sense of the term. The main characteristics of the different routes of administration are described in the following.
Growth factors - the body's own peptides control various cell functions
Peptides have become a topic of intense biochemical research since they control a multitude of regulatory functions in the body. Also the growth factors are an object of research since they regulate the development of young organisms and initiate repair mechanisms and healing processes in the later course of life. It's not surprising though that they are also in the focus of cosmetics.
Corneotherapy
The future of skincare has arrived.
Skin care for the vitiligo-affected skin - aspirations and reality
Vitiligo is a rather conspicuous skin disease since the respective skin areas have completely lost their pigmentation. Although, the causes of the disease still are largely unidentified, there is help available for the patients concerned in the form of adequate skin care products and active agents.
Without carriers only modest effects - Functions and effects of carriers in cosmetic products
When we talk about carriers in cosmetic products we need to distinguish between particular chemically defined substances and physical carrier bodies. In conclusion, both alternatives have the same effects: combined with active agents they increase the bioavailability. An enhanced bioavailability requires in-depth knowledge on the physiological processes in the skin and strictly contrasts with the idea of "a lot helps a lot!"
Jars, tubes, dispensers etc - cosmetic packaging
The packaging of skin care products serves for product protection but also is intended to persuade people to buy. What particular functions and requirements are important for the packaging of cosmetic products?
Vitamins in cosmetics
While many other cosmetic active agents experience their ups and downs, vitamins continue to be in vogue. They are essential components of natural and of physiological cosmetics.
Benchmark skin measurements - a solid evidence
Measuring the skin before and after the treatment is a popular method to awaken consumer desire for skin care products. Also cosmeticians can convince their customers with facts and figures.
Trace elements - tiny helpers for a healthy life
They only occur in minute amounts in the human body. Nevertheless, a decline in trace element concentration causes severe deficiency symptoms. Read more about their function, effects and their significance in the cosmetic field in the following.
Schumann oscillations, radio waves and ultrasound against fat stores - The liporeduction method according to Dr. med. Jabs
To remove "fat stores", "love handles", "saddlebags" and cellulite once and for all without diet, pain and efforts - these are the magical promises of the beauty industry. Reducing the body circumference through ultrasound in „fat burning mode", HIFU (high intensive focalized ultrasound) and cavitation techniques - all these methods pledge to permanently reduce fat cells and improve the body shape. What has been scientifically proven and which of these statements are only used for marketing purposes?
Nanoparticles - sizing up skin care
I recently read an interesting article, passed to me by my Australian colleagues. It's a long way from Germany to Australia but the issues raised in the article "I'm as Mad as Hell....." by Danné, published in the Nov/Dec 2010 issue of Professional Beauty, resonated with me so strongly I felt obliged to put pen to paper.
Little powerhouses - what hand creams should accomplish
The daily work takes its toll on our hands - especially through contact with specific substances. And, the efficacy of hand creams varies a lot - it all depends on the particular formulation.
Moisturizer for the skin care
The term moisturizer generally stands for moisturizing creams. The present overview will inform on components that influence the skin hydration.
Cellulite from A to Z
Exceptions prove the rule: the vast majority of women will develop cellulite some time in their life. The treatment of the annoying indentations has grown into a profitable branch of business within cosmetics. There are lots of promises but reality frequently is different. The following overview shows what can be done and what actually is impossible.
Gentle products for soothing massages
Wellness and cosmetic treatments - both are unimaginable without massages! The customer longs for relaxation and expects the promised results. Professional competence is required here - and the appropriate media in form of creams, oils and gels.
Layer per layer - the structure of the skin
The skin is a complicated and highly efficient organ which protects our body and adds to its attractiveness. It is also barrier and intermediate station for outgoing and incoming substances. In general, we are not aware of what it can actually achieve. If the functions of the skin are impaired, however, it can become quite uncomfortable.
Silicon - the global player in cosmetics
As a cosmetic agent, the element silicon plays a wallflower role: only at the first glance, though. As a matter of fact, the semi-metal is insignificant as an active agent. However, organic silicon additives and inorganic silicates are widely used in cosmetic products.
Aquaporation - a new therapy to improve elasticity and hydration of the skin
Aquaporins (AQP) are proteins in the cell membrane - even within the epidermis - which regulate the flow of water. Thus, they are called "water channels". Aquaporation is a new method to improve the transport of substances like Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) and hyaluronic acid in a liposomal vehicle (KOKO, Leichlingen) by using the radio-SURG® 2200 (Meyer-Haake). This method is associated with an improvement of the water content within the epidermal skin and with better elasticity. It is assumed that the radio waves enhance the capacity of aquaporins to transport water by changing the structures of the channels and by loosening hydrogen bonds. 
A comparison - pharmaceutical and cosmetic active agents
Medical drugs or cosmetics? Once the cosmetician realizes, that a skin condition demands more professional competency than she can provide in her institute, she recommends visiting a dermatologist. We compare pharmaceutical and cosmetic active agents.
On substances that release emotions - a tour across the world of perfumes
Scents and fragrances are part of our daily life to the point that we often have become oblivious of them. But we unknowingly react to them. Tiny chemical molecules signalize messages with major psychological effects.
From soap to high-tech emulsifiers
There are two basic needs that are as old as mankind - hygiene and skin care. Both of them deal with the transport of lipid substances. In order to work most effectively while being gentle on the skin, modern cosmetic products make use of powerful tensides and emulsifiers. Recent emulsifying systems even are oriented towards biological structures.
Radio waves and boswellia nanoparticles - a new derma rejuvenation therapy
Considerations on skin physiology and skin aging from the biochemical point of view
Sensitive skin - identifying symptoms and causes
Besides the fact that simple causes often have major consequences for the skin, cosmetic practices are also confronted with complex issues when it comes to sensitive skin. Identifying the complex problem is a major prerequisite for a causal and successful cosmetic treatment.
Acids and bases from A to Z
Acids somehow have a spectacular image in skin care. They either have caustic effects in the true sense of the word or they are the magic cure for a beautiful skin per se. Bases, as their counterparts, only live a wallflower existence as neutralizers. Details and backgrounds are covered in the following article.
Crossing borders - on the boundaries of cosmetic skin care
There is only a smooth transition from problem skin to pathological skin conditions. Although it is not the job of professional cosmeticians to diagnose skin diseases, it is essential to know the borderlines. Otherwise there is a risk of getting into conflict with health legislation.
Corneotherapeutic skin care for the rosacea skin
Rosacea predominantly affects fair-skinned people and develops in adult age. Characteristic symptoms are erythema, changes of the superficial blood vessels and connective tissue as well as enlarged sebum follicles. Frequently there are also oedema and pustules to observe. In addition, there is a whole variety of special forms of rosacea.
Ubiquitous like sand on the beaches: silicon and its compounds
As a cosmetic agent, silicon plays a wallflower role. Only at the first glance, though: its salts and organic compounds are used in many applications, as e.g. masks, packs or hair care products.
Eye care basics - on active agents and eye formulations
Besides language and gestures also our eyes play a significant role in communication. Expressive eyes can be the decisive factor in determining sympathy and appeal. That is why the preventive cosmetic care of the eye area is of particular importance.
Using synergies - How active agents and cream bases interlink cosmetics and pharmacy
No doubt - the grey area between pharmaceutical and cosmetic skin care products is expanding. Dermaceuticals and dermocosmetics are keywords which demonstrate that the cosmetic product market is gaining grounds in the pharmaceutical field, not least because of legal claims for a proof of efficiency
Fragrance sample? Aldehydes and ketones
Formaldehyde and acetone are immediately associated with nail hardeners and nail enamel remover. In chemical terms, these substances belong to the substance class of aldehydes and ketones - which are well-known molecules in cosmetic products like e.g. preservatives, perfumes or essential oils.
Sun protection: on the efficiency of UV filters
Whenever the skin is exposed to bright sunlight, the natural protective mechanisms of the skin will no longer be sufficient. Sun protection creams are inevitable in order to protect the skin against the negative effects of UV radiation. How do the UV filters in sun protection creams work and how efficient are they actually?
Fragrances, vitamins and hormones - the ABC of terpenes
They are a main component of natural essential oils - terpenes. The chemical compounds are primarily used as aromatic or flavoring substances in perfumes and cosmetics. Yet, they are also major intermediate products of the human metabolism.
From biochemistry - the ABC of steroids
Steroids can be found in food and skin care products, in pharmaceutical drugs and last but not least even in our own body. They have effects on heart and blood circulation, fat metabolism, sexuality and skin condition.
Versatile use - alcohols in skin care products
What do you understand by the term alcohol or alcohols? What are the functions associated with it? Imagining cosmetic products without this substance class is almost impossible, except for powders.
The ABC of fatty acids
We come into contact with fatty acids day in, day out as they are elements of our daily nutrition and skin care. Already the syllable „fat" reminds us of calories and even more disagreeable is the idea of something like "acids". Fatty acids have more influence on our health than we generally assume, though. Their metabolic products control a multitude of functions in our body and in the skin.
Denatured!!? - Use pure alcohol!
Legislative authorities suspiciously regulate and survey the use of alcohol, even in cosmetic products. Both quality and safety of skin care products do not benefit from this policy.
Hormone cycles - menopause skin care
We cannot live without hormones. They influence our bodily functions, physical capacity and moods from birth to old age. We are particularly sensible of their effect during menopause.
Denaturants in cosmetic products - health is secondary
Concerning the ingredients of cosmetic products their purity is essential. The fact that the products may also contain additives that are mandatory, have nothing to do with skin care and may even cause counterproductive effects is discussed in the following paper.
Skin care for the adolescent skin
During adolescence teenagers increasingly pay attention to their outer appearance and frequently take a look in the mirror. Blemished skin often becomes a problem. Acne, perspiration etc. wreck their nerves. What can be done when the skin goes haywire, particularly at this time when everyone is focused on impressing the opposite sex?
Skin care for psoriasis skin - individually adapted
Every problem skin requires a skin care which is optimally adapted to the individual patient, particularly during non-acute conditions or periods free of complaints. Preventive care may help reduce the stress for psoriasis- affected persons.
Laser- und IPL treatments - the appropriate skin care
The use of lasers in the cosmetic and dermatological treatment has become increasingly popular in recent years. Experience has shown that preparative steps before the treatment and an adequate follow-up care are of vital importance in order to achieve optimal results.
(Poly)Saccharides in cosmetic products - From alginate to xanthan gum
Polysaccharides are omnipresent ingredients of cosmetics. They do an absolutely reliable job in silence and far away from the all-too-fleeting active agents and that is why we are no longer aware of them. How important they really are and where they are actually used is explained in the following survey.
Mechanical, chemical, enzymatic - peelings for every type of skin
No matter whether salt, sand or acid based: peelings are used to stimulate the skin recovery and to restore a youthful appearance. The cosmetician today has various techniques at her disposal to achieve these goals.
Omnipresent and multifunctional - amino acids in skin care
Amino acids are indispensable from the vegetable and animal kingdom including men through to microorganisms like bacteria, fungi and viruses. There is no life on earth without these basic elements. Why and which specific amino acids are vital for the human skin is described in the following.
Nanoparticles in cosmetic products - good or bad?
New developments create anxieties and raise questions. First and foremost because it lacks information and experience. Frequently hearsay is the only source of information available. Nanoparticles are not the same kind of quantum leap as the first steam locomotives were, though. The following article will bring some light into the darkness around the small particles.
"I cannot tolerate this product" - the influence of medical drugs on skin and skin care
Again and again beauty institutes and practices are confronted with spontaneous or chronic skin reactions. As a rule, the skin care used is then suspected to be the culprit. Frequently it is wrongly accused, as there are various other factors that play a significant role - as for instance medical drugs.
Polyethylene glycols und Co - On effects and side effects
Besides water and oils hardly any other substance group is as widely used in skin care products and dermatics as polyethylene glycols and their related substances. Interesting things to know are compiled in the following article.
Vegetable oils
Vegetable oils are the oldest known skin care products. Yet they are important as ever. Find out more about the manifold and interesting features of this substance group in the following.
Let's have a look at your feet... Well-cared feet walk better!
Pedicure tends to be neglected in young age. Wrongfully - since preventive care is a significant factor to be a good walker also in later years. The following survey describes which specific products and what kind of treatment play a role in this context.
Delicate children skin - criteria for the adequate skin care
Cosmetic products usually are developed for adults. Thus customers often are not sure which product may be used for children or baby skin. Not every product is appropriate - specifically if it contains substances that are inadequate or overdosed for children skin.
Ultrasound gels - effects, compositions, applications
Ultrasound applications have found their way into the standard repertoire of cosmetic treatments. What is the role of ultrasound gels in this context?
Beauty products for men - which products are useful?
Advertising campaigns for men's cosmetics have now come to fruition - the market already expects a double-digit growth rate. In the following find out more about the beauty products HE really needs.
Stressed skin - itching und Co. - causes and remedies
Rather unpleasant phenomenon: unbearable itching combined with erythema. Whether it is an insect bite or nettle rash after the contact with certain plants, the urge to scratch is specifically unpleasant at night times, and in public it even implies poor hygienic conditions and parasites. Occasionally the skin is irritated but the irritation cannot be localized and scratching is no relief. The following survey deals with causes and cosmetic remedies.
Lasting effect? Tendencies in anti-aging treatments
Wrinkles - now customers can well do without these and that is the reason why they willingly buy the promoted anti-aging skin care products on the market. Aim of these products however should be the effective prevention of the skin aging process. According to Dr. Hans Lautenschläger empty words or short-lived agents only are not enough.
Skin reactions - cosmetics and their effects
The ingredients of skin care products may cause inflammatory processes in the skin under certain conditions. On the other hand there are also cosmetic components which may effectively impede inflammatory processes. In the following survey the contrary ingredients are exemplarily compared with each other.
Hyaluronic acid - a legendary agent
Hyaluronic acid is a legendary agent in the true sense of the word and it is almost impossible to imagine basic skin care and the treatment of wrinkles and dry eye syndrome without it. However where there is light there is also shadow and more and more treatment procedures with hyaluronic acid become known that rather belong into the category of wheeling and dealing than into scientifically based concepts. Read more about this agent in the following.
Scars - cosmetic prevention and skin care
Scars are a frequent topic in beauty institutes. So far cosmetic only has focused on decorative and concealing products. However, recently developed new agents and bases have considerably improved cosmetic treatment methods.
Skin care during radiotherapy - soothing, vitalizing and protecting
Cancer therapies usually involve quite negative side effects and radiotherapy affects the skin in both ways: from the outside when it was used as a passageway for radiation and from the inside when the skin reacts to scattered radiation. How can skin care measures contribute to minimize the negative effects of the therapy? What kind of preventive measures are available?
Eye care products - ingredients and effects
Our eyes are like business cards for our internal frame of mind. Sadness, happiness, curiosity and almost every personal feeling can be read in our eyes and hence is communicated to our fellow human beings. Reasons enough to pay special care to our eyes and the eye area. This will keep them in optimal shape until we attain old age.
Fats and oils in cosmetics - Mother Nature versus petrochemicals?   (long version)
Fats and oils are important ingredients of skin care. The properties of hydrocarbons and silicones are compared with vegetable and synthetic triglycerides. The influences on skin recovery and long term effects are described. The present literature is reviewed from the physiological point of view.
Skin elasticity - what can cosmetics achieve?
To keep the skin smooth and free of wrinkles for as long as possible is the main objective of preventive skin care. Besides hydration and smoothing, skin elasticity is the other essential factor where all depends on. Based on selected examples the following article explains potential influences on skin elasticity and how it can be optimally preserved.
Dazzlingly beautiful lips: lip care - ingredients and effects
Lips and eyes communicate charisma and charm and that is the reason why particular attention is paid to their care. Since the characteristics of the lip area are inherently different from the other facial skin we also use specific care products. What are the ingredients and how do they work?
Oils and fats in cosmetic products - Mother Nature contra petrochemical industry?
A subject that has launched controversial discussions over and over again is the use of mineral oil based hydrocarbons in cosmetic products. Above all in the cold season it gains importance as the skin is sensitive to cold and dry air and should therefore be protected with re-fattening substances. Where is the difference between oils and waxes of petrochemical origin and natural fats and oils?
Dermopharmacy - decorative cosmetics for problem skin
Decorative cosmetics still leads a shadowy existence in many pharmacies. Wrongfully - as it is desperately needed specifically in the problem skin area in order to reduce the psychological strain of the individuals concerned. The following article describes preparations which form a valuable supplement in the pharmacies' shelves in combination with active care products and a well-founded professional advice.
Shelf life of cosmetics - what makes cosmetic products unstable?
Cosmetic products have a life of their own, all the more the higher the content of physiologically usable skin care substances. Also external influences have to be considered specifically when the products are bottled in jars. In the end, a mix of different influences determines the shelf life of the products. The following article will provide an overview on this issue.
Self-tanning products - a beautiful sun-tan without sun
While fair skin is the ideal of beauty in many countries of the world, the average central-European population rather prefers a tanned complexion. It stands for the idea of a healthy and active life style. As UV radiation however is related to the well-known consequences like premature skin aging and the risk of melanoma, self tanning products have become very popular. An overview on the pros and cons of the different product categories can be found in the following.
Skin diagnosis - based on measuring results
The precise diagnosis of the skin condition is essential for a successful cosmetic treatment as even the best product will be useless if it is not matched with the skin type of the customer.
Medical Wellness - a powerful combination
Cosmetics - medicine - wellness: an increasing number of intersections and overlappings can be noticed between these disciplines. Cosmetics is spreading its activities into the boundaries of medicine. The field of "medical wellness" fills the gap between medicine and wellness and often has its roots in the traditional folk medicine of different cultures. The following paper explains the term "medical wellness" and describes how the field of cosmetics can play an active part.
Peptides - more than transmitters and hormones
Peptides play a major role in the development of anti aging cosmetics. They occur naturally and are quite often found as messenger proteins and hormones. Also their degradation products, i.e. the amino acids are key players in the field of cosmetic skin care.
Applied corneotherapy and skin care - guidelines for the anti-aging treatment
Based on the corneotherapeutic treatment founded by Prof. A. Kligman a detailed strategy against premature skin aging is discussed. Specific elements of this strategy are the preservation of the NMF (moisture balance, protection against radicals) as well as the barrier layers, the protection against sun radiation and their consequences, the support of regenerative processes as well as reflections on the fatty acid balance of the skin. The individual care of damaged and problem skin is described in connection with appropriate base creams and corneotherapeutic actives. Treatment processes are accompanied by specific diagnostic techniques to determine the skin condition. The principle of extended "outside-in" therapy (extended corneotherapy) is explained and examples for temporarily effective anti-aging actives are added.
Vegetable oils and extracts - essential components
The use of oils and extracts for basic skin care purposes already has a long tradition and still retains its relevance today. Frequently singular substances with defined effect can successfully be isolated, very often however this specific effect is closely related to the extract or respectively the oil as an integral whole or, in other words it results from synergy effects of different substances. More information on the extraction, manufacturing process and properties of fatty and essential oils as well as vegetable extracts is provided in the following.
Quite a lot of different applications - new oils and extracts
An unprecedented number of new oils and extracts is currently introduced into the cosmetic market. To provide some assistance here, Dr. Hans Lautenschlaeger presents an overview on promising substances and their effects.
Innovative powder products - from urea powder to wrinkle killers
Powders are an essential component of the decorative skin care. In the course of time their composition has changed considerably and besides their application on normal skin, they are also used on problem skin today as well as for the optical reduction of wrinkles. More details are given in the following article.
Couperosis - a field for active agent concentrates
Couperosis - a complicated cosmetic topic: quite a few questions regarding its origin and treatment are still waiting for an answer. Just like other problem skins also couperosis demands for a thoroughly balanced skin care. Particularly in the field of supporting prevention skin care plays a significant role and all the more if the skin is susceptible to couperosis or if there is a family history of couperosis cases.
Liposomes
INTRODUCTION: Publications about and patents on liposomes, along with their different chemical components, preparation, and use in skincare products have often been reviewed [1-4]. The reviews do not need any additional comments. Of interest are general questions, such as why liposomes should be used in cosmetics, what functionalities are expected from them, and what advantages they do provide compared with alternative formulations.The properties of the widely used main component of liposomes, phosphatidylcholine, play a key role in answering these questions. Other compounds such as niotensides and ceramides, which are naturally predestined for the preparation of liposomes, are less important today. Niotensides do not offer superior claims, and ceramides are not available in sufficient quantities and qualities at affordable prices.
Precious load - transport of active agents
Within the field of skin care and dermatology active agents play the most important role. Appropriate transport systems ensure that active agents are transported to the areas where they are really needed.
Good looks, protection and skin care all inclusive: make-up for the problem skin
Make-up literally is cosmetics in the true sense of the word - it enhances the individual appearance. And from time immemorial a multitude of different pigments, dyes and mineral components has been used for this purpose. Protecting and maintaining a healthy skin however has rather been regarded as a medical issue. Today the cosmetic sector covers skin care as well as decorative aspects, and if a combination of both features works in one single product, specifically customers with problem skin will benefit.
Nitrosamines in cosmetic products - risk of skin problems?
For quite some time now print media and radio stations have been informing that a multitude of cosmetic products contain carcinogenic nitrosamines. The reports are based on random sample results of some State Health Agencies in Germany. The point here is whether an already known problem has now become a burning issue again? The following article gives detailed information.
A closer look on natural agents: facts and future aspects
Natural agents have always been a topical issue and also the object of vigorous advertising campaigns. The general public certainly associates the terms natural and biological with purity, harmlessness and good tolerance. However, not every product labeled with the term natural also contains pure natural ingredients. As usual, there are the little things that always cause trouble and particular attention should be paid to the specific terminology.
All-purpose talcum free powder bases with urea
All-purpose powder bases for use in decorative cosmetics, skin care and dermatology are described. Besides covering compounds, such as mineral pigments and physiologically compatible amides, urea plays a major role, particularly in use of powder bases on problem skin.
Eye care - new agents against wrinkles
The sensitive eye area demands for an excellent base care and well tolerable actives to balance out fine lines, dark circles below the eyes and weakening elasticity.
Membrane-containing barrier creams - protecting the skin with skin-related substances
Skin care products should primarily support the protective function of the stratum corneum and, if needed, also assist in the recovery process. Accordingly these products should be called barrier creams; however this technical term rather is used in combination with skin protective products. The following report deals with today's barrier creams and their benefits for the modern skin care.
Photodamaged skin: sun-bathing and after sun care
Overexposure to UV radiation causes serious long-term skin damage, premature skin aging and may even trigger skin cancer. Even if the infrared light of the sun seems harmless though, it may build up extremely high temperatures in the outermost skin layers and as a consequence also lead to premature skin aging.
Radical scavengers as active agents: facts, new aspects and future perspectives
In cosmetics as well as in medicine active agents against free radicals have ranked among the top-rated substances for quite some years. Every now and then there are new substances on the market which are even more effective in scavenging free radicals. How do radicals come into being, what are their effects and how dangerous are they actually? What is the difference between radicals and free radicals? Quite a few intricate questions which are not too easy to answer!
Under close scrutiny - phytohormones
Hormones control our bodily functions throughout our entire life. They also have effects on our skin. As hormones have a systemic influence though, they are not allowed in cosmetic products. The research for substances with hormone-like effects proved successful in plants. Detailed information on these specific components which are called vegetable hormones or phytohormones will be provided in the following article.
Enzymes - the silent brownies
Enzymes are substances of very special kind. They are the brownies in the metabolism of live organisms as they compose or degrade the substances involved. They take care of almost every single chemical transformation, silently, ecologically and without leaving any waste products. They can also be selectively used in the field of cosmetics.
Irritated skin - skin in a state of turmoil
Irritation - what exactly does it mean? In general the term is explained as an overreaction to an insignificant or even trivial incident. Now, what applies for the area of mental balance may also be extended to the skin. Skin irritations, their causes as well as their treatment will be discussed in the following article.
Actinic keratoses - an endemic disease?
Millions of vacationers deliberately expose themselves to excessive UV radiation. As a result, the risk of UV-related skin damage is rapidly increasing. Sun worshippers thus have to expect an increased risk for actinic keratoses (a carcinoma in situ). Most recent estimates prove that about 8 million Germans suffer from actinic keratoses. There is an estimated prevalence of about 15 percent among individuals over 40 and one out of two of the persons over 60 is affected with such skin lesions.
Mixed skin - a skin with two different faces
In the daily practice frequently questions come up regarding the appropriate cosmetic treatment. Mixed skin: What does it actually mean? How can we receive adequate measuring results and what is the best care - all these questions are answered in the following.
Corneotherapy and anti-aging
Corneotherapy was coined in the nineties by Professor A.M. Kligman. In his studies he proved that a skin therapy with moisturizers already could achieve clinical effects. Experience has shown now that corneotherapy can also protect the skin against premature aging.
Reddened Skin - what may cause the symptom?
Everyone cares for even skin as it is a symbol for health and cleanness. It's quite a nuisance when red spots appear and even more annoying if their cause is unknown. The following information provides some assistance to detect the causes.
Vitamin K for a healthy and beautiful skin
Vitamin K is an essential nutrient for the human body. Vitamin K belongs to the fat-soluble vitamins and naturally occurs in two different types, i.e. vitamin K1 and vitamin K2. Vitamin K1 is mainly assimilated through vegetable food whereas vitamin K2 is formed by intestinal bacteria as e.g. Escherichia coli.
Olibanum - embedded in nanoparticles
A substantial increase of inflammatory skin diseases such as neurodermatitis, psoriasis and actinic keratoses but also skin cancer has been observed worldwide. The serious barrier and cornification disorders involved can now be treated with frankincense, the lately discovered cosmetic agent.
Self mixed
KOKO now offers foundations which are individually adapted to customers' needs. The modular system is easy to handle and does not require any specific practical knowledge.
Dermatological cosmetics - linking cosmetics and medicine
The term "dermatological cosmetics" already alludes to the combination of dermatology and skin care. Dermatological cosmetics, what does it actually mean? What is the difference between dermatological and conventional cosmetics? Based on a present-day example the concepts of dermatological skin and beauty care and their compatibility with the existing law will be described in the following.
Water and water - just not the same things: water qualities
When discussing active agents in cosmetics, very often the most important one is ignored: water! Professor Albert M. Kligman even speaks of "water dermatology" as an essential element of corneotherapy. In fact the quality of the water significantly influences the skin condition in a positive as well as in a negative way.
Treatment of actinic keratoses with a new olibanum extract
Millions of vacationers deliberately expose themselves to excessive UV radiation. As a result, the risk of UV-related skin damage is rapidly increasing. Sun worshippers thus have to expect an increased risk for actinic keratoses (a carcinoma in situ). Most recent estimates prove that about 8 million Germans suffer from actinic keratoses. There is an estimated prevalence of about 15 percent among individuals over 40 and one out of two of the persons over 60 is affected with such skin lesions.
High tech agents: new - improved - and more effective?
In skin care products, the essential sales argument on the manufacturers' side and the decisive factor on the part of consumers to buy the product are the active agents contained. Accordingly, the cosmetic industry is continually researching for new and better agents. What are their specific features and what effects do we expect?
Preservatives
Preservatives are added to cosmetics in order to prevent product deterioration and combined with it to avoid any possible health risks involved for the consumer. In the following you will be informed about products which particularly require these additives, about the basics of preservatives and about possible alternatives.
History and current aspects of corneotherapy1)
The term corneotherapy was coined by A. Kligman. A persistent corneotherapeutic treatment of the disturbed homeostasis as the characteristic feature of atopic dermatitis with appropriate skin care substances may achieve substantial clinical effects. In summary, it can be said that corneotherapy aims at the recovery of the stratum corneum and above all, it improves the function of the skin barrier and subsequently also the overall homeostasis of the skin. For the purposes of a preventive corneotherapy it is essential to avoid skin care products with harmful substances such as irritants and allergens, to select the appropriate skin care substances, to individually adapt the skin care products to the specific skin problems and to possibly change behavioral patterns following a corneotherapeutic consultation. Recent clinical studies have indicated that not only barrier disorders like atopic dermatitis respond to corneotherapy. Also cornification disorders and dermatoses may be treated adjuvantly with success. The studies are based on a therapy with membrane structure products closely related to the chemical and physical structure in the stratum corneum. An important precondition obviously is the presence of phosphatidylcholine. Phosphatidylcholine may be used in membrane creams (barrier creams) and liposomes. Further galenic forms are nanoparticles and oleogels. It depends on the skin analysis and the specific skin problem which galenic form is the most effective treatment for the particular case. Moreover, modular systems allow the addition of pharmaceutical and cosmetic actives. One of the major advantages is the fact that corneotherapy is largely free of the side effects known from topical pharmaceuticals. Preventively applied, corneotherapy may extend the intervals between attacks and reduce or even avoid the use of conventional dermatics.
Skin care for the neurodermitic skin - supporting the skin barrier
Dehydrated skin and a high transepidermal water loss (TEWL) are characteristic symptoms of the neurodermitic skin. Especially during the winter season an adequate skin care accompanying the treatment and above all its specific formulation is an important issue.
Lipophilic substances - oils and lipids in cosmetic products
Although they apparently fail to show any spectacular effects, oils and lipids belong to the most important ingredients in cosmetic products. From the corneotherapeutic point of view they are right in the focus of current interest: selectively applied they help to regenerate damaged skin.
Skin analysis - customer interview to complement measurements
While subjectively rating a cosmetic product the human brain processes a multitude of sensory stimuli. Though, subjective ratings and objective skin analyses taken by measuring devices are not always identical.
Corneotherapy - ...more than just a surface application
Experience shows that besides their influence on the release of active agents base creams can have substantial effects of their own.
Cornification disorders - the adequate skin care
Keratoses of the skin are common public diseases. As a result, also cosmeticians are frequently faced with questions regarding the care of the affected skin. In the following, you will find interesting information on active agents, cream bases as well as cleansing and skin care products for these conditions.
Shelf life and preservation
Along with the latest amendment of the German Cosmetic Decree (KVO) a new regulation becomes effective. Products with a shelf life of more than 30 months or more have to be labeled with the symbol of an open jar together with the date indicating how long the product may be safely used after opening. The author takes the opportunity to have a closer look at the connections between preservation and shelf life of cosmetic products.
Skin cleansing - selecting the appropriate product
Skin cleansing preparations range among the essential skin caring products. They are part of the daily hygiene and a prerequisite for further skin care measures. Hence, there is a great variety of different preparations and applications. The following overview offers assistance in selecting the appropriate product.
Oleogels - what non-aqueous products can accomplish
Today's skin care products mainly are emulsion-based which means that they contain water and an oil respectively lipid phase. In addition there are still products with only an oil phase. Oils but also oleogels belong to this group. They are primarily recommended for problem skins and therefore used in the dermatological cosmetics.
Concentrated agents: sera and ampoules
Quick results, problem solutions, intensive care... these are the keywords connected with sera, ampoules and active agent concentrates to be applied either directly or in form of masks, packs or other special treatments in the beauty institutes.
Whitening - lightening the skin tone
Pigmentation marks, freckles and reddened skin are frequently felt as a nuisance. As only very few individuals however are endowed with an even skin tone, so called whitening products become increasingly popular.
Perspiration and body odor - keeping the und#145;emotional smell' under control
(Excessive) Perspiration together with the possibly developing body odor may be part of sporting activities, in company however it can be embarrassing. The cosmetic industry offers a wide range of products with antiperspirant and highly effective deodorant properties.
Emulsifiers enable mixtures
Emulsifiers are indispensable wherever lipids, oils and waxes are mixed with hydrophilic media with the objective of obtaining a stable mixture over a certain period of time. They are, among others components of food and cleaning agents, lubricants and cosmetics.
Ingredients - objective information appreciated
There is in-depth coverage on spectacular active agents in cosmetics. By contrast, base substances and additives are rather found in small print, though they give detailed information on tolerance and long-term effects of the product.
Specific active agents and bases in corneotherapy
The term corneotherapy was coined in the late nineties1) by Professor Albert M. Kligman. The basic idea of corneotherapy is that topically applied substances as e.g. moisturizers and lipids influence the biochemistry and physics in the horny layer as well as subsequent processes in deeper skin layers which again have effects on the constitution of the horny layer.
Preservatives - germs et al. under control
Microbiological stability is a must for cosmetic products. Consequently preservatives are among the essential additives in cosmetics. They protect the products against microorganisms during the manufacturing process as well as during storage and application and they also are the deciding factor for the duration of their shelf life.
Additives in cosmetic products
Besides the lipid substances for skin caring purposes and the lipid and water soluble active agents the INCI declaration of a cosmetic product generally lists a variety of further ingredients. They may be categorized with the term "additives" and have various functions.
Skin barrier disorders - preventive measures
Skin barrier disorders are a widely spread phenomenon today. Most frequently the symptoms are dry and sensitive skin and serious cases of skin disorders are neurodermatitis, psoriasis and cornification disorders in general.
Active agents - the effective skin care: lipids, the basic elements
Lipids play an important role among cosmetic active agents for the skin care. In terms of quantity, they are the most frequently used ingredients of cosmetics besides water. Seen from the historic perspective, skin care actually began with the use of lipids. Depending on geographical regions and culture, olive oil, sesame oil, sperm oil and animal lipids of different origin were the first basic skin care substances.
Active agents, the effective skin care - vitamins, oils und more
From A like allantoin to Z like zinc. There is a multitude of active agents on the market either as substances to be used for cosmetics or substances contained in cosmetics. Effects as well as efficacy depend on various factors which will be described in detail in the following article.
Active agents: liposomes, nanoparticles und co
Life can only exist in an atmosphere which provides protection against outside influences. Thus, monocellular living organisms are protected by cell membranes whereas multicellular organisms are provided with an exterior skin whose outermost layer, the epidermis also has a membrane-like structure which together with its specific composition serves as a model for cosmetic and dermatic products.
Acne - prevention and care
Acne is one of the most frequent skin problems beauty institutes are confronted with. Acne customers and above all the younger generation among them often go through a personal ordeal and generally have high expectations of a cosmetic treatment.
Active agents, the effective skin care - smoothing the skin and providing overall protection
Active agents are a favorite subject of discussions and an important topic of many publications. Above all, the advertising material provides abundant printed information. However, what are the specific features of active agents, how do they work and what are their advantages and disadvantages? All these questions will be answered in the following article.
Essential fatty acids - cosmetic from inside and outside
Our body depends on numerous substances which have to be replenished with our daily nutrition. Certain fatty acids are among these essential substances. Deficiencies have a detrimental effect for the human organism and skin.
Skin analysis - with the support of modern instruments
The skin analysis as a main component of the cosmetic treatment forms the basis for successful skin-specific concepts. A large supply of different instruments may facilitate the skin diagnosis. However, what are the specific performance features of these instruments?
Re-energizers: lotions - the speedy skin care
Lotions are speedy re-energizers for the skin. Especially when extended parts of the skin require a fast and evenly spreading care they are the best alternative. Nevertheless, lotions are not really a "lightweight" solution.
Therapy and wellness in the bathtub
Bathing and balneological products already have a long tradition and still enjoy great popularity. Moreover: even in today's shower age, the wide range and the application of balneological products is still on the rise.
Regeneration - the potentials of cosmetic products
In general usage, the term regeneration already is more or less identified with a magic formula against skin aging. Accordingly, there is a large variety of different prescriptions in form of products and treatments on the market. Quite evidently, the aging process of the skin cannot be stopped; however, prevention may contribute to alleviate its symptoms.
Strong effects - phospholipids in cosmetics
Phospholipids are indispensable for the live organism and play an essential role for both health and nutrition due to a great variety of different functions. They also prove to be perfect base substances for cosmetic products.
INCI - Declaration
The ingredients of cosmetic products are declared in accordance with INCI standards. Knowing how to read the INCI provides information on the ingredients and gives important clues whether the particular customer can tolerate certain products or whether the cosmetics contain substances which should rather be avoided.
Psoriasis - the appropriate care
Psoriasis is a partially hereditary skin condition with intermittent attacks which may be triggered by additional environmental or nutritional factors or by mental stress. An appropriate skin care may relieve its symptoms.
Energizers - masks and packs
Masks or packs are essential elements of a large variety of cosmetic treatments. Unfortunately, it frequently falls into oblivion that these products in fact are some sort of quick-change artists. By adding different active agent concentrates and base creams, they are able to adapt to the specific needs of the skin.
Universal base creams with membrane structure for skin care, skin protection and dermatics
Although the market offers a generous supply of finished products, base creams still play an essential role in pharmaceutical preparations for the individual dermatological treatment. On the contrary: symptoms of sensitive skin, neurodermatitis and a series of other skin problems which altogether are on a steady upward trend, even can be treated individually as the substances which are not tolerated can explicitly be avoided. Thus, the experience of the dermatologist and pharmacist involved can ideally be included in the treatment for the maximum benefit of the patient respectively customer. In addition to that, the knowledge that besides the dermatological and cosmetic active agents, the selected cream base is a deciding factor for a long-term success is increasingly gaining ground.
Masks - the speedy refreshers
Clients of beauty institutes prefer individual treatments showing quick and visible results. Possible solutions here are masks in combination with effective active agents.
Emulsions - micro-emulsions - nano-emulsions
Cosmetic products have a multitude of technical terms and it is difficult to keep track of it. On the other hand just a basic overview enables to infer to their practical properties. Taking a look at the microcosm of emulsions is worth the effort.
Neurodermatitis - specific prevention
Neurodermatitis is a major strain for the persons affected, above all due to the permanently dry and frequently itching skin. A well-designed skin care with appropriate products helps to reduce these symptoms.
Product variety in the beauty institute
Offering a wide range of different products today has become the recipe for success of the beauty institute. Not only when establishing new beauty institutes but also in general it is recommended to carefully select the products for treatment and sale.
Worth knowing - the cosmetician as a consultant
Specifically in cases of problem skin the cosmetician is predestined to offer comprehensive consultation on skin care and skin treatment after the skin is analyzed. Prerequisite here is detailed information on the products.
Progress in occupational skin protection
The number of occupational dermatoses is increasing although the workplace safety regarding the materials and substances used has constantly been improved. Thus, skin protection at the workplace and an effective skin care become the focal point of interest.
Balneological products - application and benefits
Bathing is very relaxing. It soothes body and soul. And this is the reason why cultivated bathing habits, in the therapeutical field also called balneology or hydrotherapy become increasingly popular again.
Encapsulated substances - the capacity of carrier systems
Liposomes and nanoparticles have a high affinity to the horny layer of the skin due to their composition. With the help of these carrier systems water and oil soluble substances can easier penetrate the skin.
Instruments for skin analysis
An accurate analysis of the skin type establishes customer confidence, is the basis for a specific skin treatment and promotes the sale of skin care products. Special measuring instruments can optimize the analysis
Emulsifiers - looking for alternatives
Emulsifiers stabilize emulsions. Yet, evidence that emulsifiers may cause skin irritations is mounting. While looking for alternatives it was found out that stable creams for a variety of different applications can be produced on the basis of skin-related substances.
Regeneration of the skin barrier
The objective of regenerating the skin is just as old as cosmetic itself. The decorative cosmetic shows how we would like to look after the regeneration. The caring cosmetic with the active agents at its disposal tries to support the regeneration to revitalize, soothe and protect the neglected, elderly and damaged skin.
Preventive care in the beauty institute
The task of the cosmetician is not only to provide a short-term improvement of the skin but also to effectively support the prevention of skin diseases.
Cosmetic dermatology - dermatological cosmetic
The combination of cosmetic and dermatology offers a variety of opportunities/benefits for clients, patients and institutes/consulting rooms. The cosmetic dermatology or the dermatological cosmetic complements the fields of orthodox medicine and traditional cosmetic and extends their activity field.
Ceramides - lipids with multiple assignments
In combination with other skin components ceramides form a natural barrier in the horny layer. They prevent the dehydration of the skin. There are new products which support the skin-own formation of ceramides.
Protect your skin too
Besides all the efforts of caring for the skin of the clients, the skin protection of the cosmeticians should not be neglected. Day in, day out, the cosmetician gets into contact with the products she uses for the treatments. High-quality products are useful which also protect the skin of the cosmetician.
Skin care for cosmetician - new developments in skin care
The latest amendments in the German Cosmetic Decree (KVO) have shed some light on the ingredients of cosmetic products. As Dr. Hans Lautenschläger explained in his lecture held at the 5th Professional Training on Dermatology and Cosmetics in Munich, declarations regarding the ingredients (INCI) frequently are neglected when selecting a product.
Skin protection for the hands of strong men
The acceptance of skin protection and skin care especially designed for activities in humid conditions (e.g. metal industry, construction industry, hairdressers) and workplaces where oils are used (e.g. oil industry, automotive industry, mechanical engineering) among the individuals affected is rather low. Especially in those fields where not really corrosive and acutely irritating or sensitizing materials are used but rather "everyday" substances, a large number of skin diseases has been diagnosed according to the statistics of the professional associations (1).
dermaviduals - modular product systems
Dermaviduals are skin care products which are freshly prepared right on the spot in the beauty institute. This article shows how cosmeticians can prove their skin care competence by offering this individual service.
Liposomes in Dermatological Preparations Part II
In Part I, some theoretical background on the structure of liposomes and their probable mechanisms of action on and in the skin were reviewed. Part II will discuss in more detail the utilization of liposomes in dermatological and cosmetic formulations. Appropriate uses are suggested, and some practical limits pointed out.
Liposomes in Dermatological Preparations Part I
Liposomes or liposomal aggregation may have played a role in the formation of the first cell membrane on Earth. Immediately after the discovery of liposomes by Bangham, there was intense research in the pharmaceutical industry concerning their parenteral application, but without a decisive breakthrough. It was only with the success of the first liposomal cosmetic called "Capture" that it became evident that the possibilities for the application of artificial vesicles could be achieved in practice in the market place.
Electron-microscopical Detection of Liposomes in a Skin Treatment Gel
This study is an example for the quality control of a liposomal skin care gel and shows the compatibility of liposomes based on soya phospholipids with a gel forming agent of the xanthan type. The analysis described allows imaging of liposomes in their surroundings and demonstrates that the preparation is correct as far as formulation is concerned.
Comments concerning the legal framework for the use of liposomes in cosmetic preparations
Concerning cosmetics the same application criteria are valid for liposome formulations as for other comparable forms of application. The advertising claims for a deep acting liposome preparation must not be extended into the »drug« field. The argumentation becomes much simpler if highly unsaturated natural phospholipids are employed as raw material for the liposomes.
The Use of Liposomes from Soya Phospholipids in Cosmetics
This article shows that on the one hand the development of the liposomes technology offers great chances for many new cosmetic products (which are very desirable from the consumer's point of view), but that on the other hand the cosmetics developer has to deal very intensively with questions of raw material selection, characterization of raw and finished products as well as the question about the biological fate of his formulations, in order to avoid risks. In this connection, soya phospholipids in the form of liposomes have much to recommend them, in view of their wide spectrum of activity and the decades of experience with these natural raw materials in food and pharmaceuticals.

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