Our first Clinic of the Month of 2018 is Medacare Skin Specialist Clinic, which is located on the Southern Island of New Zealand in Windsor, Invarcargill. Lee, owner and head skin treatment therapist chatted to us about her clinic and her passion for working with skin.
“Your skin is affected by numerous external factors, such as your environment or your skincare routine. Underneath the surface, your skin is affected by much more. Allergies and intolerance are being developed far earlier in life because of the constant challenge being placed on the body. Your genes, the hand you have been dealt, can make you far more sensitive and reactive to dietary choices and other influences such as hormones, chemicals and other factors. Genetics modify the physiology of your skin and nutrition drives every chemical reaction including immune responses regulating both health and disease outcomes. Because of these factors, you get skin problems when others don’t, and while you can’t always change the hand you have been dealt, it’s important you play your hand well with the right treatment strategies to mitigate the damage genes, diet and environmental factors can do to your skin. This is why Medacare was established and why we are registered and specialised in dietary and nutritional science in addition to clinical aesthetics. We believe when you treat all the developmental factors you can change the course of a lifetime for many people, advancing successful outcomes.”
How has dermaviduals assisted your business?
“We often see clients with allergies and sensitivities that have been using toxic chemicals, emulsifiers, even natural or organic skincare that can build up in the skin tipping the skin into an unnatural state, affecting the microbiome, challenging the immune system and causing skin problems, so being able to work with dermaviduals has been essential to correct this. The lamellar structure in the DMS base and the physiological lipids mimics the skin both chemically and physically so we can recover the skin without irritation safely. Being able to compound appropriate actives also means we can treat both acute and chronic skin conditions very seriously and personally for each individual we work with. As our client’s skin changes, their skincare is easily adjusted to treat, manage or prevent aesthetic and medical skin problems.”
What is your favourite dermaviduals product?
“There are many for different reasons and conditions but for this, I choose Liposome Concentrate Plus. It is rich in linoleic acid, phosphatidylcholine, and contains azelaic acid which together has several mechanisms by which it can be used for very successful treatment. It is commonly prescribed for problem skins, acne and rosacea and here’s why: if the epidermis is deficient in linoleic acid (Omega 6), the skin develops barrier disorders and presents with a variety of conditions. Water loss (TEWL) through the skin increases, the skin dries out, becomes scaly and the complexion takes an unhealthy tone, interleukin-1a also increases which is inflammatory. Linoleic acid is one of the most important barrier activating substances, it is a component of the ceramides that make skin strong and impermeable and thus less easily ruptured and less sensitive to irritations. When applying linoleic acid it thoroughly penetrates the uppermost skin layer to treat this. Chemically bound, it is transformed to the anti-inflammatory substance for inflammatory skin conditions. It protects the skin from UV damage and inhibits melatonin, thus fades hyperpigmentation. Elevated squalene and abnormally low levels of linoleic acid are involved in the pathophysiology of acne, therefore, correcting this deficiency can reduce acne lesions by 25-70%. When people use oils and skincare low in linoleic acid and high in fatty acids like oleic acid acne can be developed or worsened. This is in part due to the fact that linoleic acid is responsible for helping control and inhibit the enzyme activity that converts testosterone to DHT involved in androgenic acne (much like zinc) but also because it is partly responsible for improving the peroxisome proliferator-activated receptors and retinoid receptor situation which regulates sebum production and hyperkeratinisation. Considering the microbiome of the skin, linoleic acid is also an anti-microbial responsible for controlling Propionibacterium. Lastly, linoleic acid is involved in the formation of Lamellar granules that produce the enzymes involved in normal exfoliation. Lamellar granules make your skin strong, acne-prone skin has been found to contain fewer lamellar granules so this is a much needed little topical for problem skin. Phosphatidylcholine (PC) is incredibly essential for correcting the skin and plays an important role in the skin barrier and biological cell membrane. It is a source of phosphocholine and helps form ceramides after apoptosis of skin cells. It is a penetration enhancer to transport and deposit vitamins and other substances such as azelaic acid into the horny layer of the skin which becomes a depot for actives that have an influencing and regenerating ability on the living epidermis. Using PC changes the skin in as little as 3-4 weeks, becoming more finely pored, less inflamed, compact, youthful and healthy. Azelaic acid, the major active found in Liposome Concentrate Plus is a non-toxic dicarboxylic acid that naturally occurs in cereal crops and has anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties that scavenges free radicals. It reduces the growth of bacteria in the follicle such as propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus epidermidis. Azelaic acid drives disordered cells and follicles to return to normal through reducing keratin while being sebum suppressive and sebum liquefying, decreasing formation of acne. It is particularly useful for pigmentation control as a tyrosinase inhibitor as well as being able to induce selective cytotoxic and anti-proliferative effects toward abnormal melanocytes. Finally azelaic is commonly used to manage rosacea through its suppressive effect on the enzyme and immune cell involved in rosacea’s development so is an essential topical for this condition.”
What is your number one skin care tip?
“Chemicals are found everywhere in nature, including natural foods and skincare. Some are beneficial i.e the vitamins we need for good health and skin. On the other hand, many plants, raw materials and man-made chemicals contain substances which are toxic to us, causing a huge problem for many. The staple foods we eat today have been selected by trial and error over thousands of years, both for their nutritional value and because most people can tolerate them without getting sick. This is also true for skincare, trial and error is still occurring on a massive scale all around you. With the rising number of allergies and the second wave of recently emerged intolerances, my skincare tip is to take responsibility for your choices, especially for things you expose yourself to on a daily basis. Find a product such as dermaviduals to safely treat and care for your skin long-term and protect yourself from developing unnecessary skin problems caused by mainstream cosmetics.”