More and more beauty consumers are shunning the “one-size-fits-all” approach and opting for personalised skincare with great results. The retail floor is a confusing place. There are colours, signs and products everywhere, all fighting for our attention and our money. The popularity and lure of “do it all” skincare and makeup products is growing, but at what cost to our skin? “Just like fingerprints, every skin is different, with it’s own set of unique needs which change over the various stages of our lives,” says Dermaviduals scientist Dr Hans Lautenschlager. “In the past, skin was categorised into three types: dry, oily or combination. This blanket approach is incapable of treating the unique needs of the individual.”
Skin therapist Amy Erbacher agrees that an individualised approach is needed after seeing so many “confused” skin types in her practice.
“I believe that is why today I’m seeing more people with sensitised skin. People self-diagnose through the internet or beauty counters, thinking they have a particular symptom, when it may be something internal.” Or, she adds, they could be applying a product with an ingredient too harsh for their skin. Welcome to beauty product customisation. This is a growing trend where individual analysis is taken into account every time you make a skincare purchase. While not a new concept for the beauty therapy market (facialists have long been creating bespoke product routines following client treatments), the retail sphere is now adapting to suit the needs of consumers with more brands offering the personalised option. Youthphoria founder and pharmacist Shirley Bee uses cosmetic chemistry and pharmacy compounding to make individual solutions of active and natural ingredients for her clients. “Formulating at effective concentrations maximises results, reduces irritation and gives an impeccable feel upon application,” she explains. “We work with people who have hypersensitivities to particular ingredients such as fragrances, colour agents and preservatives, those with a desire for specific ingredients to be included at higher and more effective concentrations than what is on the market, and those with stubborn skin complaints.” German brand Dermaviduals operates on the same adaption principle. Go into a skincare salon for a Dermaviduals facial and they can devise an at-home system individually tailored with ingredients to work for your specific skin type and concerns. Therapists are able to treat any type of skin condition and use fewer products to do so. Customisation works because it only uses ingredients that are going to make a difference, nothing more: “Often what people believe their skin needs is quite different to what the cells of the skin actually require to function efficiently,” adds Dr Lautenschlager. “It’s the health of the cells that produces a healthy skin, not treatment of external symptoms.” National President of the Association of Professional Aestheticians of Australia Anne-Marie Marynycz agrees: “There is no such thing as one size fits all. We should know that by looking at our body shapes. Each of us is unique and therefore we need to apply only those products that will work on our skins.”
Customisation hits hair care
The trend of bespoke beauty is also branching into the hair care market. British brand Concoction soon to be launching in Australia but available now for international shipping) offers a range of hair care products that can be individually adapted with specially formulated “super serum” shots containing vitamins and active ingredients for every hair type and requirement. Dry ends and oily roots? Mix up your own solution on their website to combat both woes and watch it work magic. Lux BC offers clients a bespoke treatment to take home after their colour appointment by infusing the actual shade pigments from their individual colour to prevent colour fading and maximise the shine and condition of the colour between salon visits.